A cup of hot coffee

My mother’s best friend, Ottelie K. Nicklin, typified Old World elegance. Born in 1906, she was old enough to be my grandmother; my brother and I called her “Omi,” a German variation of “grandmother,” a term of great affection. From 1990, when we first met, to 1997, when she passed away, Omi colored my appreciation of the finer things in life and imbued me with a sense of traditional propriety — especially in regards to food. She was the one who taught me the proper way to set the table at age 10. (A practice I referred to as “tablestitious” because the unyielding order seemed like superstition to me.) She gave me my first taste of homemade raspberry thumbprints and the recipe for them at age 12.

Aside from technical matters, Omi also instructed me in how to describe food (and life) succinctly and accurately. She corrected my use of the phrase “a hot cup of coffee,” arguing that it was the coffee, not the vessel, that should receive the designated heat of the adjective, as in “a cup of hot coffee.”

Her humor, too, stuck with me. Upon seeing the overpriced menu at a restaurant accessible only by a long walk up a steep hill, she astutely commented: “We staggered here, and now we’re staggered by the prices.”

And so it is with Omi in mind that I shall tell you about The Daily Bean, my favorite place to get a cup of hot coffee.

The Daily Bean Café is a stately brown house with a long porch located at 11 Union St. in the heart of Montgomery. Inside, subdued pink walls sporting local art for sale surround wooden tables bathed in natural light. At the most coveted spot in the house — the table closest to the door, with an arched window seat — window decals cast coffee bean-shaped shadows on the forest green bench cover. You can smell the coffee being prepared behind a wooden bar with stools for those who like to sip and go; in such a relaxing atmosphere, I prefer to take my time.

The Bean boasts no fewer than three daily fresh-brewed specials ($1.50/cup + refill in house; sm. $1.30, lg. $1.50 for carry out), usually their House Blend, Colombian Decaf and a wildcard flavor for the adventurous, such as Crème Brulee or Banana Crème Pie (All of which you can buy by the pound.). The house blend is my favorite: not terribly acidic; goes down smooth; not qualifying as bold but, in its way, a robust flavor. It is a perfect complement to meals and desserts. You can have it with cream or sugar, and the usual rainbow of assorted sweeteners in pastel packets — I have it black. To quote Agent Cooper from the television show Twin Peaks, the house blend is a “damn fine cup of coffee.”

For those who crave something fancier than their straight-up joe, the list of variations on a theme and non-coffee drinks is comprehensive. For something sweet, I recommend the mint mocha latte ($3.50), creamy and well-balanced; always, crème de menthe, chocolate and coffee making a tasty trio. Chai ($3.50), a strong black brewed with spices including cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and clove. When married with milk and warmed just right, its pleasing aroma reminds me of Christmas.

A light lunch menu, updated daily, contains standard sandwich and salad fare at above-average inventiveness. Their seemingly traditional chicken salad is punched up with tarragon, apples and walnuts. This concoction is most delicious on a sliced croissant, though you may choose whole wheat, rye or French bread instead. Bright yellow curry chicken salad with apples and raisins is so creamy and pleasingly tart that I swore it must be thickened with yogurt (Surprisingly, it’s mayo-based, too.). All sandwiches ($6.50/ea.) are served with a pile of pasta salad (lighty oiled, tangy rotini and flecks of carrot sprinkled liberally with dill) and a neat scoop of delicious potato salad (red potatoes, mayonnaise and a touch of yellow mustard). Wraps ($7.50/ea.) are also served with the salad duo, and each one comes with melted cheese (mozzarella or cheddar) and dressing (usually ranch or house vinaigrette). Number on my list is the stellar grilled veggies with feta and balsamic wrap, a pesto tortilla brimming with zucchini, yellow squash, eggplant, onions, red peppers, red leaf lettuce and tomatoes.

For dessert ($5/ea.), the fruit cobblers cannot be beat. During my last visit, a friend and I shared a delectable heap of warm peach cobbler with a generous scoop of vanilla bean-flecked ice cream, a dollop of whipped cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce. The cobbler’s fruit was succulent and fresh, with the sweet peach skin still on every slice. Its golden biscuit topping ran the gamut from crusty on top to a cakey middle, downright doughy in parts touching the fruit filling. Needless to say, it was sheer dessert perfection when coupled with a solid cup of hot black coffee.

With dreamy desserts, friendly service and a calming atmosphere, The Daily Bean Café is a true jewel in downtown Montgomery. I think Omi would approve.

Megan Labrise

(Orig. pub. date: May 23, 2007)