Can’t mess with the best

It’s two steps up and one step back in time. While Pete’s Hot Dogs at 293 S. Williams Street in Newburgh has certainly changed over the course of 67 years of operation, its philosophy of providing in-and-out service for Newburgh’s hot dog fans is timeless but not modern.

Opened in 1940 by Pete Orsino, the interior of the original location evokes an era absolutely no later than the ‘60s. To the right is the counter, behind which stands a team of several no-nonsense employees whose mission is to relay and assemble lunch orders in seconds, with an efficiency today’s fast food service workers can only dream about. At the end of the counter are four tall stools facing a wall adorned with hot dog art —caricatures of anthropomorphic Valentine’s Day hot dogs in love and one St. Patrick’s Day hot dog with a shamrock bun. To the left are four small tables, over which hangs a portrait of Pete himself. With his thick-rimmed black glasses and warm features, he looks like the grandfather you always wished you had.

But ambiance isn’t what this place is about — it’s about sheer hot dog perfection. It’s also about tradition. When you’re young, it’s a place your parents take you after a successful Little League game; when grown, you can stop by on lunch in a business suit and tie or a Carhartt worksuit smeared with oil. You move away and it’s the first place you stop on your way back in to town to visit relatives. It’s an honest-to-God institution.

I do know it crossed my mind from time to time on plane flights back from college — but enough of my misty-eyed reminiscences. It’s OK if you haven’t got a sentimental bone in your body as long as you appreciate a great hot dog.

Contrary to historical belief, Pete’s is no longer serving up its staple Temple Hill hot dogs. Unfortunately, Newburgh Meat Packing, main distributor of the delicious Temple Hill “snappy dogs,” went out of business, cutting off the convenient supply of the original signature dish. In hot dog lingo, snappers are natural casing hot dogs that snap when you bite into them. The new supplier is Boar’s Head and, while they’re still technically snappers, there are some notable differences. First off, these Boar’s Head all-beef frankfurters don’t snap back. However, the natural casing does retain moisture that keeps the dogs hot and juicy. One critical patron at the table behind me noted that Boar’s Head dogs are “greasier” than Temple Hill’s, but I’ll just say they’re “juicier.” (I’m a people-pleaser.) No matter what the terminology, there’s no debunking the fact that the Boar’s Head dogs are still delicious and, all things considered, an excellent choice for a replacement.

Pete’s hot dogs ($1.43 each) are made to order, served on soft white steamed buns. There are five numbered varieties up on the board: 1. Mustard & Kraut; 2. Chili; 3. Texas; 4. New York; 5. Mustard & Relish. Order by name or number — doesn’t matter. There are brief descriptions after the more complex dog types to help you keep their differences straight. For example, Chili is smothered in a hot bean sauce and Texas is topped with mild meat sauce. New York is covered with tangy sautéed red onions, like traditional “onions in sauce,” if you buy them at the grocery store, but with bigger slices and peppery spices. Though New York is my hands-down favorite, I always order one Texas and one New York and let the flavors duke it out in my mouth. Once again, it may just be my bias talking, but I think the zesty New York wins every time.

For those who seek a little extra zip, spicy or otherwise, toppings (37 cents each) are: bacon bits, raw onions, salsa, cheese, relish and a new addition, jalapeño slices. Diced raw onion is classic on its own and has no trouble pairing with anything: in particular, it gives Texas sauce its missing edge. The cheese is of the molten orange-yellow variety, bad for you but oh-so-good on chili. The jalapeno slices are bold; shamefully, I had to remove one or two from my chili double dog.

Speaking of the double dog ($2.50), this magnificent creation is not simply twin hot dogs laid side by side for a slight price reduction — oh, no no no. Nay, it is the double-decker bus of the hot dog world, with two franks sharing the same bun, a firmer, crustier roll that accommodates the additional dog and extra toppings. While I like the classic steamed bun best, the double dog bun does not yield as quickly to chili and cheese.

To wet your whistle, sodas ($1.16) are petite, but enough to wash down two dogs, easy. One of the most popular flavors is “white cream,” the clear cousin of the amber-colored cream soda we’re more familiar with. As opposed to traditional, which is, well, “creamier” — white cream is lighter on the palate, almost like seltzer with the bitter aftertaste swapped for a sweet one. There’s also root beer, Pepsi, diet and 7Up to choose from, as well as a panoply of unexpected potables, like orange juice ($1.16) or hot tea (68 cents).

In an attempt to get as much information as possible for this column, I did try one of the dessert plate-sized homemade chocolate chip cookies (83 cents), which tasted like the cookies I used to bake with my mother when I was a little girl. Like those cookies, this, too, was pretty dry, but had a nice vanilla flavor that develops after a brief chew. I got the impression that this cookie would be perfect for dunking in chocolate milk (83 cents). But, again, it ain’t “Pete’s Chocolate Chip Cookies” for a reason.

Lays and Ruffles potato chip snack bags are also available (65 cents each). See above.

While the menu is exclusive, the atmosphere is anything but. Pete’s isn’t snobby — it’s straightforward. Your order will pretty much be taken immediately and served up almost as quickly (unless you’re on a cell phone — and fair enough!). The 15-minute parking signs on the street in front of the building do encourage high turnover but, hey, how long do you need? I find that’s the perfect amount of time to order one Texas, one New York and sip a white cream soda with Pete.

Megan Labrise
(Orig. pub. date: April 11, 2007)